The first thing I’ll say about Okina Sushi is if you blink, you’ll miss it. The second thing I’ll say is that after the meal I had on Friday night, I’m pretty sure I’ve had a religious awakening.
My friend Andy, a true sushi connesiour, told me about Okina Sushi a few weeks ago. I’m not kidding when I say Andy is like a zen sushi master. He’s studied the art of sushi eating. He knows all the real deal sushi places in the city, the places where you have to know a secret password to get a table; places where, if you call to get directions or try to make a reservation, the sushi master (is that what you call them?) doesn’t say anything when he answers the phone, there’s just a dead silence on the line. Okina Sushi isn’t that hard core. There’s no secret password, and I did see the proprietors answering the phone. But when you walk into the place, you get the distinct feeling that you’ve crossed over into uncharted territory.
For one thing, the place is tiny. There’s a modest wooden sign over the door and some unremarkable curtains in the window, but that’s it. No neon. Inside, there are only three tables and a sushi bar that seats a maximum of seven people. The walls are painted white and other than the bamboo polls arranged over the bar to look like the facade of a japanese tea house, there’s no decor to speak of. If you’re looking for a place that blasts rock music and employs a dozen sushi chefs with bandanas wrapped around their heads who scream out greetings and churn out California rolls faster than a Ford assembly line, Okina sushi isn’t the place for you. I’m don’t offer this warning like I’m a sushi expert or anything. Give me a dragon roll and a couple pieces of Yellow Tail and I’m happy. To be honest, I was a little intimidated when I stepped through the door. At 6:30 in the evening, while other restaurants are packed to the rafters, this place was practically empty. There was only one other couple in the place and they left fifteen minutes after W and I arrived. This was our first night out together in weeks and I suggested we try the place, so I had to follow through. For a moment, surveying the nearly empty restaurant I thought, “well, if this isn’t the place Andy told me about and I’ve wandered into a place that’s at the top of health department list of violators (not that Okina sushi wasn’t emaculate–it was. Pristine.) I guess this is my last meal. Too bad I didn’t leave a note for the girls.”
Luckily, the hostess was really nice. She greeted us with a warm smile and offered us a seat at the bar–which was a good thing and a bad thing. Good because we got to watch the master sushi chef at work. Bad because the pressure was on. There was no place to hide.
As I said, I like sushi. I like all the delicate flavors. I like that you can eat a lot of it and not feel bloated. I like that you don’t have to eat a lot to feel satisfied. But I must confess, I’m about a 6 when it comes to being a hard core sushi eater. Salmon, yellow tail, unagi? That’s about my speed. So as I rolled up to the bar, I had those old favorites in mind. W, on the other hand, is like Evil Kinevil of sushi. He’ll try anything. The last time we went out for sushi, he convinced me to try sea urchin and I nearly passed out at the bar. Something about the pinky-orangish color made my eyes water. Something about the consistency, the way that little slice of suspiciously-ripe-French-cheesy looking matter settled into seaweed wrapper, made my palms itch. I looked over at W, who’d already popped the first piece into his mouth. He let out this long, orgasmic sigh, “Mmmmmmmmmmmm. Oh God. Mmmm.Yes. Oh! That’s sooo good,” and slumped in his chair. His head sort of fell to one side and all I could see were the whites of his eyes. I thought, “well, damn, if it’s that good, I’d better get to it. Bring it on, baby. Bring it on!” But the moment that . . . that . . . whatever-it-was . . . that little slice of nightmare hit my tongue, I knew I’d made a mistake. I closed my eyes and said a prayer as my stomach rolled over. “Please Lord. Let me not vomit all over this sushi bar.” Of course, the sushi master was right there, inches away, watching my every move. I couldn’t spit it out or even take a mouthful of water and try to swallow it whole. I had to chew every soft, milky, runny-cheesy-like, gut-twisting morsel, and I had to do it with a smile.
So you can understand why, tonight, I started to sweat as I took my seat.
I looked at the menu. No dragon rolls. “Okay,” I thought. “I’ll take it slow, play it safe.” I could feel the sushi master’s eyes on me. We were, after all, his ONLY FUCKING CUSTOMERS. “I’ll start with yellow tail, please?”
W scowled.
The sushi master nodded. “Try the tuna. The tuna is very good.”
I faked out like I didn’t hear him.
W sighed.
If people had thought bubbles over their heards, the sushi master’s would probably have read, “Stupid American woman. Light weight. Get out of my restaurant.” But he nodded again and whipped up two orders of yellow tail which, by the way, he placed directly on the bar. I forgot to mention that part. You know how usually, when you go to a sushi restaurant, they give you a little mount of ginger and a ball of wasabi on a plate? Well, at this place, all the condiments, ginger, wasabi, a little mound of white noddle-looking stuff that tasted like jicima, were arranged in a little pile right on the sushi bar. I’ve never been to Japan, so I don’t know if this is the traditional way of eating sushi or if our sushi master was psycho, but I thought it was best to go with the flow.
I’m happy to report the yellow tail was really good. Really, really good. Light, mildly sweet. Perfect. I started to relax.
The sushi master nodded again and said, “Try the tuna. The tuna is very good tonight.”
So I tried the tuna, which was, I’ll admit just as good as the yellow tail. I thanked him.
Once again, the sushi master gestured toward the array of fish, inviting us to place our next order. I was eyeing the unagi when I thought I saw something flash across his face. In fact, I swear I saw a thought bubble pop up right over his head. It read, “The stupid American woman is going for the unigi. Coward. Why are you wasting my time?”
That’s when W stepped in. He gestured back to the sushi master and said, “We’ll leave it up to you. You choose. Whatever you think is best.” Then he looked at me and flashed this big Cheshire Cat grin.
You’ve really got to love a man who puts your life and the future of your children in the hands of a sushi master. For a second I wondered whether W wasn’t trying to kill me so he could collect the insurance money and retire. Didn’t he remember the sea urchin experience? But what could I do? The sushi master looked happier than he had since we sat down. Believe me, I recognize the look. I understand the feeling one has when one is “in the flow,” when one is in union with his or her art. It’s the feeling I get every now and then when I’m on a roll with the novel and the words are coming faster than I can type them. It’s heaven, Nirvana. There’s nothing better. How could I come between an artist and his craft, his life’s purpose? Every few seconds he reached into the little glass cabinet and pulled out a different chunk of fish. I caught him sliding something, I couldn’t see what, into the toaster oven. You know that feeling when you step onto a roller coaster, pull the bar down over your head or across your waist, and feel it lock into place? That’s the feeling I had. Like it or not, I was taking the ride.
First up: something called Jack Fish–a delicate slice of tender white fish with what I can only describe as a mildly sweet, sort of fruity leaf between the fish and the rice. It was magical. Like a little fairy floated by and sprinkled a bit of pixie dust over everything. I let out my own sincere, but well mannered orgasmic sigh.
Next: some kind of mackrel. I didn’t catch the name. It was butter and satisfying, the way a slice of Mozzerella cheese is satisfying, only, again, lighter
The sushi master looked happy.
Then: something that looked like baby scallops on a bed or rice with thinly sliced scallions on top, all wrapped in a piece of sea weed. Again, spectacular. Other worldly.
Sometime right in through here, W, the sushi master and I became one–cosmically speaking. He clearly appreciated our willingness to surrender to his sushi genius. Every few seconds, I’d see his hands reach for the something new. Then I’d hear the little toaster over door slam and I’d see the sushi master’s face awash in its glow as he stared into it, waiting for his next creation. There was lots of nodding and smiling.
Through my sushi induced haze, I watched as a party of three came in, apologized profusely for being early, but clearly hoping they could get seats. Keep in mind, the place was EMPTY. But the hostess turned them away. I’m not kidding. She smiled and firmly told them to come back at their reserved time.
Next: I don’t even remember. Maybe Tuna something. It’s all a blur.
The small voice, the watcher, in me was starting to whisper that I was approaching the edge of my comfort zone, but my egoic mind was determined to press on. (Actually, I shouldn’t kid about that shit. I’m going to screw up my karmic mojo.) The sushi master was turning out dishes faster than I could consume them. There wasn’t time to stop and inquire. But if you’ve ever eaten one bite of sushi too many, you’ll understand the feeling I’m about to describe: somewhere, way down deep in the pit of your stomach, you start to feel a little full. It’s not entirely uncomfortable, but if you’ve ever eaten a donut and you walk around for the next hour with feeling that wad of greasy dough in your gut, you have a good idea what eating too much sushi can feel like. And somewhere, far back in the corner of your lizard brain, you begin to think about the fact that you’ve consumed two pounds of raw fish in less than an hour. That’s when you have to seize control and push back from the bar.
And that’s when sitting at the bar is a bad thing. Because by then, the sushi master has taken you into his inner circle. Once you were just a customer, a stupid American woman with a taste for the McDonalds version of sushi. Now you’ve earned his trust and maybe even his respect. There’s nothing between you and the master. As I watched the sushi master dip into the case yet again, I tried to think of how best to politely indicate that I’d had enough. I knew I couldn’t eat one more thing, believed, with my entire being that the smallest grain of rice would send me over the edge.
And thank God, that’s when W decided to go for broke. “It’s time for the sea urchin,” he said, his eyes glazing over slightly.
I held up a hand. “No.”
“No sea urchin for you?” the sushi master asked.
I patted my belly. “Not this time. But thank you. It was all delicious. Too good.”
The sushi master shrugged, but I saw something different in his expression this time. I think it was grace. Yes. Grace and forgiveness. He saw me for the mere mortal I am and recognized my silent plea for release. He allowed me to maintain my dignity–and for that, I’ll always be grateful.
A few minutes later, the sushi master laid two piece of sea urchin sushi on the bar. I have to admit that in their own way, there were beautiful. W savored every bit, demonstrating the proper amount of respect and appreciation for the small piece of art he’d just consumed, and I . . . I leaned back against my chair flushed with relief that I’d survived.
I think the sushi master will remember us the next time we pop in. Not because we were sufficiently appreciative, though I think we did okay. Rather, because W when W went next door to get cash to pay for our meal, he returned with the money a box of Easter sugar cookies.
“Cookies????” the sushi master asked.
“I love these,” W said holding the box up for him to see. “They’re my favorite.”
If we’d been in a tony French restaurant, I bet you dimes to donuts the chef would have tossed us out. Who tops off such a masterpiece of a meal with a box of sugar cookies? But I think, in a way, W’s move was so unexpected, so odd, the sushi master couldn’t be offended. In fact I know so. Because all of a sudden he threw back his head and cackled. It wasn’t a laugh. It was a cackle–the strangest, most hair-raising cackle I’ve ever heard.
As W and I gathered our coats and thanked the hostess, the sushi master was still cackling. It was the last sound I heard as we stepped through the door.